A Small Tutorial

Second post in the space of two days… I know, don’t die of shock.

Anyway, this one is a small tutorial, and I’ll try and do one a week on different weathering techniques, from basic drybrushing to using salt and Liquid Green Stuff.

Now as most of you know, when it comes to my own army, and especially the vehicles, I hate them looking shiny. Most armies, mine included, don’t always get back to their homeworlds that often. So to mirror this, the armor, on the troops and tanks should look worn and battle damaged, this includes some very heavy weathering to make this happen. So in a series of pictures, and small explanations of techniques and paints used, I hope to give you all some insight on how I achieve this.

So when battles take place on cold/frozen worlds, the usual guys to be sent in first are Space Wolves, one reason is they are used to fighting in these conditions unlike other chapters. Space Wolves are masters of cold weather fighting, having to live on a planet that is 60% of the time encased in a centuries long ice age. I try to reflect this in how my entire army looks, however this also gives me a chance to use techniques I wouldn’t normally even attempt on a commission piece, unless asked ofcourse and even then it would be with some reluctance, unless I had practiced it first on my own miniatures. So to start off this tutorial, I’m going to show you how I achieved…

Frost Weathering.

To start, I always prefer a black undercoat, I find it especially useful when doing metal. Which ofcourse, as you’ll see from the pic, there is a fair bit of metal work.

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To follow on from this I put a light, in other words you don’t have to make sure it fills all the area’s, coat of Leadbelcher. This is a nice dark(ish) metallic paint from Games Workshop, and is a brilliant basecoat for all things metal.

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After that has dried, I always get hold of my medium dry brush and and use it to do a stipple effect with Liquid Green Stuff. Now using it this way, can, and will, cause damage to the brush itself. However, I only use this particular brush for this sort of work, and yes I do have one that I use for drybrushing, so I’m used to the damage caused.

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Once the LGS has dried, I then put on a fairly liberal coat of Mournfang Brown, this will give a nice mud effect without being to overpowering. I find it easier to use it than I do with Devlan Mud, which is the texture paint, and it gives a slightly better finish for what I’m after in the end.

Now it doesn’t entirely matter if you are neat with it or not, most of it will be hidden in the end, but  why the mud colour, why not white, I hear you all ask. Well… have most of you driven through snow on a field? I churns the ground up beneath it, so that’s why I like to use a muddy colour as a base coat, just to reflect exactly what would happen on a battlefield.

ACER

So after that, you just add Mourn Mountain Snow, which is one of the texture paints, to the tracks and surrounding area’s. Again I use the dry brush to put it on, and this gives the end effect of frosting, it also gives it a very realistic view.

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So this is, like I said earlier, the first of many tutorial posts on how you can make something look more realistic on the battlefield using a simple weathering technique. If you’ve enjoyed reading this, and also have tried some of my tips with success… or failure, then please comment.

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